Rishikesh is the first settlement the holy Ganges River passes; a city secluded from the mayhem of modern India. The perfect setting for those seeking a spiritual path
Rishikesh sits at the foothills of the Himalaya and is popular amongst yoga enthusiasts from all over the world. Located in Northern India in the state of Uttarakand, known as Uttaranchal until 2006, the city has a cooler climate. This helps with the often rigorous and exhausting spiritual and physical exercise of yoga.
Indian pilgrims have been traveling to Rishikesh for centuries to bathe in the holy 'Mother Ganga'. One dip in the sacred waterway is said to wash away all your sins. Many also trek to nearby sacred sites or find spiritual guidance from swamis or Hindu holy men.
One swami even said 'the Ganges cools the hot sexual awakenings that yoga brings on'.
Yoga - More than just Exercise
There are a host of things to do and learn in this bustling and beautiful city including classes in Reiki, ayurveda medicine, Indian cooking, tabla playing (Indian drums) or white water rafting down the Ganges.
The real reason most flabby westerners visit Rishikesh is to learn yoga. You can learn the oldest traditional kind, Hatha Yoga, or try several others including Tantric Yoga, Kundalini Yoga, Ashtanga Yoga, Iyengar Yoga and Vinyasa Yoga. Every type has a different take and focuses on different aspects of this 1000-year-old spiritual practice. Private or group lessons are available or train to become a yoga intructor.
In Hinduism to become fully immersed in yoga or meditation it is recommended to abstain from sex, alcohol, eating meat and drugs is helpful. It is also believed that meditating in Rishikesh leads to the attainment of salvation.
Where to Stay - Ashrams
Most visitors stay in ashrams where life revolves around finding your inner peace. Ashrams vary in price and strictness. For example the 120-year-old Kailas Ashram Brahmavidyapeetham, an institution dedicated to preserving traditional Vedantic Studies is vastly different to the more relaxed Sri Ved Niketan. At Sri Ved Niketan the rules are simple: you can come and go freely with a 10pm curfew; no talking between 10pm-6am; no smoking or drinking; no overly social interactions.
Rooms are private, with adjoining bathrooms while areas for eating, meditation and yoga are communal. Although making friends isn't approved of the swami here allows couples wanting to attain a deeper level of spiritual awareness together stay. But no hanky panky!
Accommodation at Sri Ved Niketan is a mere 150 rupees - US$3. Meditation and yoga classes are 100 rupees. There are many other ashrams available.
Famous Rishikesh
Rishikesh has attracted a number of celebrities over the years including The Beatles, Donovan and more recently Kate Winslet. The Beatles ventured there in 1968, staying at the otherworldy Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's Ashram. For 25 rupees you can wander amidst the derelict meditation mushrooms and central ashrams where the famous group found inspiration for their pyshcedlic album Magical Mystery Tour. Although the area is being reclaimed by the forest and thieves have taken anything not nailed down, there are new plans afoot to recreate the ashram as a home and school for street children by ex-Hollywood actress Maggie O'Hara.
Essential Knowledge
Several temples, old and new, line the banks of the Ganges. There are two footbridges to the main tourist area of Rishikesh. One goes from High Bank on the western side of the river to Lakshman Jula on the eastern side of the river. One further south crosses over into the Swarg Ashram area where most of the main ashrams are. Both bridges allow pedestrian and rickshaw access.
Rishikesh is 6 hours by bus from Delhi. Buses depart regularly throughout the day from near the ISBT. Trains stop at Haridwar, an hour by bus or taxi from Rishikesh.
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