More and more Westerners come to India wanting to see a guru. But how do you choose from the many Indian gurus, and what should you know before visiting an ashram?
“Guru” is often translated as “teacher” or “spiritual leader” but the word comes from two Sanskrit words, “gu” meaning darkness or ignorance, and “ru” meaning removing it. Guru, then, is one who brings light to darkness and removes ignorance. An ashram is a place where a guru resides.
There are so many ashrams in India that you should have some idea about what you are looking for before you go. Some ashrams accept casual visitors, some require a longer stay or may only open their doors to serious devotees.
Ashrams that are popular with Westerners include the ashram of Sri Sathya Sai Baba in Puttaparthi, Andhra Pradesh, and that of Amma (Sri Mata Amritanandamayi Devi) in Kerala. These two ashrams still have a living, live-in guru. Some, like Osho’s ashram in Pune, continue the work and teachings of a guru who has passed away.
The highlight of life in an ashram is always the darshan, or audience with the guru. Darshans with the most popular gurus are massive occasions, when thousands of devotees come together to meet their guru. Amma is known for giving hugs in her darshans, and she sometimes hugs thousands of people in a single day, while devotees queue for hours to receive one of her famous embraces.
Some ashrams require devotees to do some voluntary work every day and that can mean peeling potatoes in the kitchen or sweeping floors. Some encourage silent study and meditation.
Most ashrams have a dress code that may seem fairly conservative to Westerners. Generally it means covering up as much skin as possible. Some ashrams require that all visitors wear only white. In Sai Baba’s ashram, those who have not covered up enough are not allowed into the darshan hall. Fortunately, having an ashram outfit made at a local tailor’s is easy and cheap in India.
Men and women usually live separately, unless they are married. They often also eat separately and sit separately in the darshan hall.
What do you want from your visit to an ashram? To spend some time studying Indian philosophy? To see a famous guru? To become enlightened? The last one probably won’t happen within one visit, but do consider how much time and commitment you are willing to put into your stay in an ashram, or if you just want to do some ashram sightseeing.
Many of the most famous gurus seem to be surrounded by large numbers of highly devoted followers as well as rumours and controversy. There are also less than genuine "teachers" who probably should not be called gurus, so use your own judgement and common sense.
Ashrams generally charge small amounts of money for accommodation and food. Accommodation can mean sharing a room with several others (of the same sex) and food is usually Indian vegetarian. On the other hand, both Sai Baba’s and Amma’s ashrams have canteens that provide Western food. Some ashrams, such as Osho’s, offer courses in yoga, meditation etc. and can charge Western prices for the courses. Many ashrams rely on donations and volunteers. Many gurus also have charity projects and encourage donations to these.