Trekking to the Pindari Glacier excites all the senses. From the sweet fragrance of pristine alpine air, the rainbow of heavenly wildflowers, tasting hearty curries, the welcome warmth of hot chai and the friendly voices of greeting at each village.
The changing scenery as you gain altitude shows the Himalayas varied landscapes with the ultimate breathtaking sight of the Pindari’s frozen blue-white waves well worth the effort of getting there.
One of the most accessible Himalayan glaciers, the 5-7 day trek covers 94km, also passing two side trips to other glaciers if time is available. The well-defined trail runs adjacent to the Pindari River, one of the main tributaries to the Holy Ganges River.
A popular trek among Indian Hindu’s it’s not uncommon to see elegant ladies in colourful Indian salweer kameez suits and perfect makeup hiking this steep and testing trail. The sacred Nanda Devi peak (7816m) is their destination. The trek itself doesn’t reach these dizzying heights but altitude sickness is a concern. The glacier (3650m), is 5km long, 300 – 400m wide and occupies an area of 339.39 sq km.
Between May and September are the best times to go, with residual snow on the last section to the glacier in early May.
Preparation for this trek isn’t difficult. Good gear, including backpack, boots, warm clothes, sunscreen, hat, sleeping bag, thermarest/sleeping mat, head torch, 2 litre water bottle or bladder is essential. A guide to help with distances, times and locations of villages and tea houses is recommended. Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Indian Himalaya is good. Accommodation is available along the trail at basic tea houses which also provide meals and snacks. A tent is recommended in the busier season during the school holidays in May-June.
Room price's are around 50 rupees (US$1) and local curries, called Thali are 10-15 rupees. This filling dish consists of various veggie curries separated into sections on a stainless steal plate with rice and chapatti. Also available are the more ordinary Maggi two minute noodles which come in two or three flavors.
The trek starts in the tiny town of Song. Catch a bus or taxi from Bageshwar (2hrs) or Almora (7hrs) to Song. Check at local ticket offices for times. The difference in price between taxi and bus is large but taxi’s are much faster.
Here the first grinding uphill slog to Lorakhet (1600m) is just 3kms. The steep start gives a good idea of what’s to come. Many walkers spend their first or last night here. The walk continues steeply before you reach a ridge with some great views before descending through shady forest to a collection of guesthouses called Dhakuri (2680m), 11km's on. After Dhakuri head down through more forest that opens up into a deep valley dotted with farms. Khati is the largest town on the trek, 9kms after Dhakuri, with a population of around 400. There are a few different quest houses here.
The next leg, an 11km stretch of undulating trail next to the river, passes impressive waterfalls. Just over the only major bridge is the tiny hamlet of Dwali (2650m), ask to stay in the cottage. After Dwali the trail gains altitude fast. Terrain transforms from lush mixed temperate forest brimming with birds and butterflies to mountain meadows surrounded by towering icy peaks.
You may need to stay an extra night at Phurkia 7km down the trail (3110m) or in Dwali to adjust to altiude. From Phurkia the route skirts hanging valleys and deep gorges and is just 5km to Zero Point. The viewing point of the Pindari Glacier.
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