Kolkata (Calcutta) is no longer just identified with slums, destitution, and the inspiring work of Mother Teresa. It has a rich culture waiting to be experienced.

In contrast to its impoverished past, Calcutta (renamed Kolkata in 2001, although the name is still catching on) has ripened into the cultural capital of India. No where else in India will you come across such soul in one place. The best ways to get in touch with the city are by walking around and soaking up its atmosphere, taking in live performances, and treating your taste buds to some distinctive Bengali cuisine.

Cultural Centres

Calcutta is the home of revered and Nobel prize winning Bengali poet, Rabindranath Tagore. His birth and final resting place, Tagore House (located at the corner of Chitpur and Vivekananda Roads), is dedicated to all manner of the arts and is just the place to start familiarising yourself with the Bengali culture.

Next, continue by immersing yourself in a live performance. Browse through The Metro section of The Telegraph newspaper to find something appealing. Otherwise, head to the Rabindra Sadan theatre in Cathedral Road (Ph: 033 2248 9936). This place could easily be called the cultural hub of Calcutta and is well regarded for the live poetry readings, drama and dance performances, and exhibitions it hosts. You'll find something on most nights here. While you're there check out the Academy of Fine Arts, (Ph 033 2223 4302) located not far away on the same street. This is one of the oldest and finest art societies in India. The Birla Academy of Art and Culture, 108 and 109 Southern Avenue, also has some excellent historical and contemporary exhibitions.

Food

Bengalis are well known for their love of fish and sweets, which feature prominently in their diet. Two of the best places to try some authentic Bengali cuisine are Kewpies and Oh Calcutta!. Kewpies, located at 2 Elgin Lane (Ph: 033 2475 9880), has a charming homely setting and serves up a delicious Bengali thali. Oh Calcutta!, which has now expanded throughout India, is located at the top of the Forum shopping complex on Elgin Rd (Ph 033 2283 7169). It's dishes of jumbo prawns and fish are deservedly very popular.

For sweets, you can’t go wrong by stopping in at one of the many sweets shops found all over the city. You can try your luck by picking a random selection of sweets, for around Rs 5 (12 cents) per item, or ask for some of the Bengali specialty rasgulla (sweet cream cheese balls flavoured with rose water). If you’re longing to relax with some good food and inexpensive drinks, the old-world Peter Cat, in Middleton Row just off Park Street, is a reliable favourite. You must try the Chello kebabs here. The cocktails for only Rs 80 ($2) and glasses of wine for Rs 150 ($3.50) are a great find too.

For a really local experience, head to one of the city’s inexpensive dhabas. The Azad Hind dhaba on Ballygunge Circular Road serves food around the clock and is popular with the young crowd on their way home from a night’s partying. An attendant will even come to your car and take your order. A meal of standard Indian fare here will cost you around only Rs 50 ($1.20).

Walking and Wandering

Calcutta is a charming city to be enjoyed on foot due to the wide open expanses of its Maidan. The Maidan comes alive during the day with people doing early morning yoga, jogging, playing cricket and strolling. Starting off from the Esplanade, walk up through the Maiden past Fort WIlliam and Eden Garden to the Strand and the historic ghats (river banks) along the Hoogly River. Make sure you stop by Babu ghat, with its mish mash of bathers, masseurs, and religious offerings.

From here, make your way towards the monumental Howrah Bridge, which connects Calcutta to Howrah on the other side. The garland sellers on the left just below the start of the bridge provide a colorful, eye catching display. To get a feel for why the Howrah bridge is the busiest bridge in the world, you really must walk across it. In this way you’ll truly experience the sheer volume of traffic that it carries, including cars, buses, bicycles, bullock cars and innumerable people bearing loads of heavy wares on their head.

Shopping

The sprawling and chaotic maze that’s New Market is not to be missed if you’re after a bargain. One of the prevalent porters will be happy to show you in the direction of whatever you’re after, for a fee of course. Otherwise, simply browse at your leisure but be prepared to battle the crowds. Inside you'll find a wonderful collection of shops selling everything from flowers, savouries, ready made clothes and saris to greeting cards, silver ware and table wares. Afterwards, take a walk along Chowringhee Road, which is lined with street vendors selling bags, clothes, jewelry, and terracotta wares.

Nightlife

The party scene in Calcutta is relatively small, but unlike many cities in India that have a curfew, it surprisingly rocks until 4 or 5 o'clock in the morning. You’ll find that most of the nightlife is located at international hotels.

Start the evening early in the open air drinking garden at the Fairlawn hotel, an eccentric eclectic place where you’ll never get bored of people watching. Next, if live music is your scene then the Someplace Else pub at the luxurious Park Hotel in Calcutta's posh Park Street won’t dissapoint. Here you’ll also find Roxy, a classy bar that churns out classic retro, a two level club called Tantra, and a lounge bar with swimming pool and hot tub called Aqua.

Other popular places are the themed Underground (yes, it is based on the London rail network) at the Hindustan International Hotel, and the relatively new and intimate Soho at Ideal Plaza, 11/1, Sarat Bose Road. For something a little more exclusive, with a cover charge of Rs 500-1000 ($15-25) to match, try the Sheesha hookah bar at block D, 5/F 22 Camac Street. These places all play a blend of Hindi, hip hop and house - and sometimes even psychedelic trance.